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2014 Saint-Véran “Les Pommards Vieilles Vignes”

Domaine Robert-Denogent

2014 Saint-Véran “Les Pommards Vieilles Vignes” Domaine Robert-Denogent - Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant
Knowing that the Mâcon has a reputation as a more “casual” winemaking region than its northern counterpart in Burgundy, you might assume that the wines are somehow lesser or more simple than the storied whites of Chablis or the Côte de Beaune, but you would be doing yourself a disservice. This Saint-Véran is a serious wine—seriously delicious! More-than-fifty-year-old vines running through limestone and clay produce a wine that offers a creamy and luscious mouthfeel intertwined with a dry, stony minerality. Its aromas of sweet mandarin, lime leaf, and a hint of spice suggest a refreshing adult Creamsicle—perfect with summer sunshine and picnic fare or even a more elegant meal. While Les Pommards may be ignored by hard-line Meursault or Chassagne drinkers, you can do no better than to stock your cellar with this undervalued yet exceptionally worthy and genuinely charming jewel.

Jennifer Oakes

$42.00
Vintage: 2014
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Chardonnay
Appellation: Pouilly-Fuissé
Country: France
Region: Burgundy
Producer: Domaine Robert-Denogent
Winemaker: Jean-Jacques Robert
Vineyard: 52 years, .52 ha
Soil: Clay, Limestone
Aging: Aged for 18 to 30 months in the same barrels (20% new, 50% two passages, 30% more than two passages
Farming: Lutte Raisonnée
Alcohol: 13.5%

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About Burgundy

In eastern central France, Burgundy is nestled between the wine regions of Champagne to the north, the Jura to the east, the Loire to the west, and the Rhône to the south. This is the terroir par excellence for producing world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

The southeast-facing hillside between Dijon in the north and Maranges in the south is known as the Côte d’Or or “golden slope.” The Côte d’Or comprises two main sections, both composed of limestone and clay soils: the Côte de Nuits in the northern sector, and the Côte de Beaune in the south. Both areas produce magnificent whites and reds, although the Côte de Beaune produces more white wine and the Côte de Nuits more red.

Chablis is Burgundy’s northern outpost, known for its flinty and age-worthy Chardonnays planted in Kimmeridgian limestone on an ancient seabed. Vézelay is a smaller area south of Chablis with similar qualities, although the limestone there is not Kimmeridgian.

To the south of the Côte de Beaune, the Côte Chalonnaise extends from Chagny on its northern end, down past Chalon-sur-Saône and encompasses the appellations of Bouzeron in the north, followed by Rully, Mercurey, Givry, and Montagny.

Directly south of the Chalonnaise begins the Côte Mâconnais, which extends south past Mâcon to the hamlets of Fuissé, Vinzelles, Chaintré, and Saint-Véran. The Mâconnais is prime Chardonnay country and contains an incredible diversity of soils.

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For the wines that I buy I insist that the winemaker leave them whole, intact. I go into the cellars now and select specific barrels or cuvées, and I request that they be bottled without stripping them with filters or other devices. This means that many of our wines will arrive with a smudge of sediment and will throw a more important deposit as time goes by, It also means the wine will taste better.

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