Unfortunate victims of climactic catastrophes in 2015 and 2016, the young Robert brothers had no complaints about 2014. Nicolas elatedly declared the vintage “ideal,” while Antoine added, with a devious grin, “Even the harvesters were beautiful!” Their eighty-year-old vines in Les Reisses yielded a powerful, fleshy Chardonnay, its concentration matched only by its sturdy mineral foundation. This wine has an impressive track record of aging, developing luscious notes of smoke, honey, butterscotch, and marzipan after ten to fifteen years in bottle.
Jean-Jacques Robert took over five hectares of his grandfather’s vines in the Mâconnais just outside the village of Fuissé after finishing law school in 1988. Though most of the harvest had always been sold off to the cooperatives, the small parcels that made up the domaine were already understood to enjoy unique microclimates, producing Pouilly-Fuissés of great pedigree. Jean-Jacques soon came under the influence of two ardent defenders of terroir, the great master of Morgon, Marcel Lapierre, and American importer, Kermit Lynch. Little by little, Jean-Jacques has introduced radical changes to the domaine, finally realizing its full potential. He is now joined by his sons, Nicolas and Antoine.
Let the brett nerds retire into protective bubbles, and whenever they thirst for wine it can be passed in to them through a sterile filter. Those of us on the outside can continue to enjoy complex, natural, living wines.
Inspiring Thirst, page 236