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2014 Pouilly-Fuissé “Les Reisses Vieilles Vignes”

Domaine Robert-Denogent

2014 Pouilly-Fuissé “Les Reisses Vieilles Vignes” Domaine Robert-Denogent - Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant
Unfortunate victims of climactic catastrophes in 2015 and 2016, the young Robert brothers had no complaints about 2014. Nicolas elatedly declared the vintage “ideal,” while Antoine added, with a devious grin, “Even the harvesters were beautiful!” Their eighty-year-old vines in Les Reisses yielded a powerful, fleshy Chardonnay, its concentration matched only by its sturdy mineral foundation. This wine has an impressive track record of aging, developing luscious notes of smoke, honey, butterscotch, and marzipan after ten to fifteen years in bottle.

Anthony Lynch

Vintage: 2014
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Chardonnay
Appellation: Pouilly-Fuissé
Country: France
Region: Burgundy
Producer: Domaine Robert-Denogent
Winemaker: Jean-Jacques Robert
Vineyard: 79 years, 2 ha
Soil: Blue Schist
Aging: Aged 30 months in barrels
Farming: Lutte Raisonnée
Alcohol: 13.5%

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About Burgundy

In eastern central France, Burgundy is nestled between the wine regions of Champagne to the north, the Jura to the east, the Loire to the west, and the Rhône to the south. This is the terroir par excellence for producing world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

The southeast-facing hillside between Dijon in the north and Maranges in the south is known as the Côte d’Or or “golden slope.” The Côte d’Or comprises two main sections, both composed of limestone and clay soils: the Côte de Nuits in the northern sector, and the Côte de Beaune in the south. Both areas produce magnificent whites and reds, although the Côte de Beaune produces more white wine and the Côte de Nuits more red.

Chablis is Burgundy’s northern outpost, known for its flinty and age-worthy Chardonnays planted in Kimmeridgian limestone on an ancient seabed. Vézelay is a smaller area south of Chablis with similar qualities, although the limestone there is not Kimmeridgian.

To the south of the Côte de Beaune, the Côte Chalonnaise extends from Chagny on its northern end, down past Chalon-sur-Saône and encompasses the appellations of Bouzeron in the north, followed by Rully, Mercurey, Givry, and Montagny.

Directly south of the Chalonnaise begins the Côte Mâconnais, which extends south past Mâcon to the hamlets of Fuissé, Vinzelles, Chaintré, and Saint-Véran. The Mâconnais is prime Chardonnay country and contains an incredible diversity of soils.

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Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch

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