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At the Puligny appellation’s highest point, where the tiny hamlet of Blagny (population ~10) demarcates the border with Meursault, lies the premier cru Hameau de Blagny. Regally overlooking the rest of the Côte de Beaune, Comtesse de Chérisey’s stubby old Chardonnay vines poke out from the stones that litter the vineyard floor. This is textbook Puligny—a fine perfume, layers of rich flavor on the palate, an elegant kiss of oak—with a Blagny twist: racy acidity and a saline note that makes each sip a mouthwatering delight. It’s no wonder wine writer Clive Coates once referred to Puligny-Montrachet as “the greatest white wine commune on Earth.”
|Producer:||Domaine de Chérisey|
|Winemaker:||Hélène Martelet-de-Chérisey, Laurent Martelet|
|Vineyard:||Planted in 1950, 1.7 ha|
|Aging:||The percentage of new oak and the length of aging depend on the vintage|
I want you to realize once and for all: Even the winemaker does not know what aging is going to do to a new vintage; Robert Parker does not know; I do not know. We all make educated (hopefully) guesses about what the future will bring, but guesses they are. And one of the pleasures of a wine cellar is the opportunity it provides for you to witness the evolution of your various selections. Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.
Inspiring Thirst, page 171