This bottling represents the realization of Michel Brégeon’s lifelong dream to elevate the wine of Muscadet to a loftier status than a simple oyster sipper. He was blessed with the appellation’s greatest terroir, the metamorphic ocean bedrock known locally as gabbro, and has consistently observed over time a remarkable aging potential in his wines that rivals any other white from France. Now, finally, as the appellations are being created to valorize the region’s best terroirs (in this case, Gorges), Michel is able to sell a tiny proportion of his production in the best years at its true worth. This wine can be decanted and enjoyed now or aged for ten years or more in bottle for a truly exceptional Melon de Bourgogne experience.
Great winemakers, great terroirs, there is never any hurry. And I no longer buy into this idea of “peak” maturity. Great winemakers, great terroirs, their wines offer different pleasures at different ages.
Inspiring Thirst, page 312