Over here in Burgundy the period of perma-fog is in full swing, complete with heavy wool coats and slick, wet cobblestones. It’s that time when root vegetables and rosemary lamb take over the table, demanding wines of substance and structure. Spaccaforno fits the bill for your cold-weather dinner red. This inky beauty has dusty tannins and an endless finish, with a nose of sun-baked olive orchard.
|Vineyard:||30 years, 4 ha|
|Aging:||At least 6 months of élevage in French oak (80% second passage, 20% third passage) and 10 months minimum in bottle before release|
One of the newest additions to our portfolio is Kermit’s first Sicilian producer: the Riofavara estate, which is on the southern tip of this legendary island. The Padova family has tended vines here for almost a century, but only in 1993 did they begin bottling their own wine. Just a few years later, Massimo Padova took over the estate along with his sister Marianta, their cousin Antonella, and Massimo’s wife, Margherita. This energetic young team has worked tirelessly over the last dozen years to build a new winery and hone production techniques, resulting in an impeccable expression of the land they prize so highly.
When buying red Burgundy, I think we should remember:
1. Big wines do not age better than light wine.
2. A so-called great vintage at the outset does not guarantee a great vintage for the duration.
3. A so-called off vintage at the outset does not mean the wines do not have a brilliant future ahead of them.
4. Red Burgundy should not taste like Guigal Côte-Rôtie, even if most wine writers wish it would.
5. Don’t follow leaders; watch yer parking meters.
Inspiring Thirst, page 174