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Guido Porro may be the best Barolo producer you’ve never heard of. A quiet fellow most content to work away in his steep Serralunga d’Alba parcels, this Barolista prefers to avoid the spotlight. Guido is simply a hardworking traditionalist who makes Barolo the old-fashioned way: that means fermenting with natural yeasts, macerating the juice on its skins for at least three weeks, and aging the wine for three years in Slavonian oak casks. Lazzairasco is a sunsoaked amphitheater that gives correspondingly rich, lush, powerful Baroli, loaded with sumptuous ripe fruit and streaked with notes of tar and tea. It drinks well young, but there is certainly no hurry to uncork this big, bad beauty.
While the Barolo appellation features marl soils throughout, the town of Serralunga is home to particularly poor, limestone-rich marls that give especially potent, structured expressions of Nebbiolo. The steep Lazzairasco vineyard lies in the lower portion of the famed Lazzarito cru and enjoys full southern and southeastern sun exposure and shelter from prevailing winds. As a result, this site bakes in the summer heat, producing ripe, full-throttle wines with all the heft, concentration, and aging potential Nebbiolo can provide.
I want you to realize once and for all: Even the winemaker does not know what aging is going to do to a new vintage; Robert Parker does not know; I do not know. We all make educated (hopefully) guesses about what the future will bring, but guesses they are. And one of the pleasures of a wine cellar is the opportunity it provides for you to witness the evolution of your various selections. Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.
Inspiring Thirst, page 171