For a fascinating counterpoint to Ostertag’s Zellberg, try Boxler’s regal Pinot Gris from the granite soils of the grand cru Brand. I’ll call it dry, without denying it carries the subtlest hint of tenderness—a splendid richness that provides contrast to its well-defined, toned mineral structure. Reminiscent of Mirabelle plum and rainwater, this classy beauty is ready to go, although its fragrance and texture will deepen to mind-bending lengths after a few years tucked away. –Anthony Lynch
Kuentz-Bas France | Alsace | Alsace Grand Cru
Jean Boxler, currently rules the roost at this humble yet incredibly exciting domaine. Intense and serious about his land, his craft, and his wine, Jean is the genius behind what are certainly some of the finest white wines in Alsace (and the world). World War II brought Jean’s grandfather Albert back to Niedermorschwihr from Montana, where he was busy enjoying the natural gifts of big sky country. He became the first generation to bottle the family’s production himself and commercialize it under a family label. Tasting through the entire range of Boxler’s wines is ample proof of the fact that Alsace, along with Burgundy, is the source of the world’s most complex, exciting white wines, and will probably always be.
I want you to realize once and for all: Even the winemaker does not know what aging is going to do to a new vintage; Robert Parker does not know; I do not know. We all make educated (hopefully) guesses about what the future will bring, but guesses they are. And one of the pleasures of a wine cellar is the opportunity it provides for you to witness the evolution of your various selections. Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.
Inspiring Thirst, page 171