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2009 Brunello di Montalcino

Sesti

It takes a special kind of man to look at an ancient, overgrown, neglected collection of buildings and say to himself, “Yeah, this is where I want to raise my kids,” but that’s exactly what Giuseppe Sesti did more than forty years ago when he first saw Castello di Argiano. Apparently one challenge wasn’t enough, because after Giuseppe cleared and restored the thirteenth-century hilltop estate, he turned his focus to wine! His 2009 Brunello di Montalcino has already spent several years in Sesti’s cellars—located just behind the ancient tower pictured on the label—and is starting to show the leathery, savory balsamic notes I love in mature Sangiovese. There’s no rush here.

Dustin Soiseth

Vintage: 2009
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Sangiovese
Appellation: Brunello di Montalcino
Country: Italy
Region: Tuscany
Producer: Sesti
Vineyard: 20 years, 3.9 ha total Brunello
Soil: Oceanic Sediment
Aging: Thirty-nine months of élevage in 30-hectoliter oak botti, one year of bottle aging before release
Farming: Sustainable
Alcohol: 14.5%

More from this Producer or Region

About Tuscany

Perhaps no region is tied to Italy’s reputation as a producer of fine wine as much as Tuscany. Since Etruscan times, viticulture has played a prominent role in this idyllic land of rolling hills, and the Tuscan winemaking tradition remains as strong as ever today. With a favorable Mediterranean climate, an undulating topography offering countless altitudes and expositions, and a wealth of poor, well-draining soils, conditions are ideal for crafting high-quality wines. Add to that the rich gastronomical tradition—Tuscany is home to some of the country’s finest game, pastas, salumi, and cheeses—and you have the blueprint for a world-class wine region.

This is Sangiovese territory; in fact, it is arguably the only place in the world where Sangiovese reaches a truly regal expression. In spite of a rocky history with fluctuations in quality, traditionally produced Chianti has reclaimed its status as one of the country’s most reliable, food-friendly reds, while the rapid rise of Brunello di Montalcino shows the grape’s potential for grandiose, opulent reds allying power and finesse. Traditionally-minded growers have stuck to using only indigenous grape varieties and employing techniques like aging in massive wooden casks known as botti, creating wines of terroir that shine at the Tuscan table.

Tuscan wines have had a place in our portfolio since Kermit’s first visit in 1977. While the names of the estates have changed, the spirit of those first unfiltered Chiantis he imported live on through our current selections.

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Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch

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Warnings


Drinking distilled spirits, beer, coolers, wine and other alcoholic beverages may increase cancer risk, and, during pregnancy, can cause birth defects. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/alcohol


Many food and beverage cans have linings containing bisphenol A (BPA), a chemical known to cause harm to the female reproductive system. Jar lids and bottle caps may also contain BPA. You can be exposed to BPA when you consume foods or beverages packaged in these containers. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/bpa