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Grégoire and Bénédicte Hubau do not come across as typical Bordeaux vignerons: owners of a modestly sized domaine and highly involved in the natural wine movement, the couple would seem more at home in the Loire Valley or Beaujolais. Yet one taste of this Fronsac—a pure Merlot from clay, limestone, and gravel soils—will confirm this is real Bordeaux, the way it ought to taste. The Hubaus work their vines organically, ferment with natural yeasts, and forgo fining and filtration: the opposite of many of today’s technologically produced Bordeaux. You’ll find deep, ripe, luscious Merlot fruit, a chewy texture, and tannins that are powerful yet silky all at once. The generous 2009 vintage gave wines that are already open for business, yet our experience with the Hubaus’ wines suggests that long aging is not a problem: older bottles we’ve tried have been stunning, with a tender mouthfeel and a sublime bouquet hinting at cedar, leather, and black truffle. –Anthony Lynch

Technical Information
Wine Type: red
Vintage: 2009
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Merlot
Appellation: Fronsac
Country: France
Region: Bordeaux
Winemaker: Bénédicte & Grégoire Hubau
Vineyard: 60 years avg., 7.92 ha
Soil: Clay, Limestone and Clay, Gravel
Aging: 12- to 18-month élevage in barriques, 25% new
Farming: Organic
Alcohol: 13.5%

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About The Region

Bordeaux

map of Bordeaux

Often considered the wine capital of the world, Bordeaux and its wines have captured the minds, hearts, and wallets of wine drinkers for centuries. For many, the wines provide an inalienable benchmark against which all other wines are measured.

Bordeaux is divided into three winegrowing regions with the city that gives the region its name in the near geographical center. The “right bank,” or the area located east of the Dordogne River, produces wines that are predominantly Merlot with small amounts of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The “left bank” is located to the west of the Garonne River and produces wines dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, with Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot.

The third region, Entre-Deux-Mers, lies between both rivers and produces white wines from Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, and Muscadelle. Though technically in the left bank, it is worth noting the appellation of Sauternes, which produces arguably the world’s most famous sweet wines from Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, and Muscadelle as well.

Though many top Bordeaux wines are sold en primeur (in advance of their bottling) and often through a middleman known as a negoçiant, Kermit has always preferred to purchase directly from the winemaker. For more than three decades he has sought out small producers, who make classic Bordeaux wines and are willing to play outside the negoçiant system. This ethic has led to longstanding relationships, excellent prices, and perhaps most important—wines of great value and longevity.

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Inspiring Thirst

I want you to realize once and for all: Even the winemaker does not know what aging is going to do to a new vintage; Robert Parker does not know; I do not know. We all make educated (hopefully) guesses about what the future will bring, but guesses they are. And one of the pleasures of a wine cellar is the opportunity it provides for you to witness the evolution of your various selections. Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.

Inspiring Thirst, page 171