Enjoying regional Bourguignon specialties like jambon persillé, escargots, and cuisses de grenouilles—prepared with loads of garlic, parsley, and, of course, butter—requires cleansing white wines with grippy texture to keep your palate refreshed. Henri ferments and ages his Mâcon-Villages in giant, stainless-steel tanks to accentuate acidity and showcase the chalky quartz and fossil–laden soils where his Chardonnay vines grow. Dishes like snails, frogs’ legs, and homemade terrine are best left to the pros, but a garlicky and briny linguine with clams or anchovies shouldn’t be too hard to throw together. Plus, a bottle of Perrusset will wash it down as cleanly as a fancier-priced Chablis.
Delightfully low in alcohol at just 12.5 percent, this organically grown Mâcon Chardonnay, made with fruit from the northern part of the region, epitomizes the signature Cadette style: it’s effortlessly drinkable, friendly, and grown with an emphasis on biodiversity in the vineyard and minimal intrusion in the cellar. Patriarch Jean Montanet sums up the winemaking philosophy at the domaine, now helmed by son Valentin, with one humble idea: make the most of what you have, by giving it all you’ve got. The result of this love and hard work is a near-perfect wine with, as Valentin would say, a “claque!” of freshness and minerality.
White wines from the Côte de Beaune tend to hog the spotlight with their illustrious premier and grand cru vineyards, but the attention they attract from label chasers and collectors with bottomless bank accounts means that bottle prices soar out of proportion. Farther south in Pouilly-Fuissé, while hardly an undiscovered part of Burgundy, is still the smartest place to look for value and ageability. The organic bottling of Clos Reyssié from the Roberts is a stunning example. Sturdy and waxy, it offers intense concentration laced with a touch of menthol freshness. It’s bold and inviting, like the Roberts themselves.
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