At the Puligny appellation’s highest point, where the tiny hamlet of Blagny (population ~10) demarcates the border with Meursault, lies the premier cru Hameau de Blagny. Regally overlooking the rest of the Côte de Beaune, Comtesse de Chérisey’s stubby old Chardonnay vines poke out from the stones that litter the vineyard floor. This is textbook Puligny—a fine perfume, layers of rich flavor on the palate, an elegant kiss of oak—with a Blagny twist: racy acidity and a saline note that makes each sip a mouthwatering delight. It’s no wonder wine writer Clive Coates once referred to Puligny-Montrachet as “the greatest white wine commune on Earth.”
Pernand-Vergelesses is a hidden appellation tucked away in a small valley beneath the majestic hill of Corton. Franck Follin refers to its reds as “rustic,” yet his Fichots bottling seems anything but. Perhaps it’s the lovely fruit of the 2015 vintage that generously wraps around a dense, chalky core to provide silky elegance. Or maybe the sweet perfume of fine Pinot invites us in so welcomingly we bypass its plump body and gently grippy finish. Rustic or not, Franck’s Pernand is not to be ignored.
Les Brouillards does not refer to fog, as one might expect, but rather stems from the old French word for a wooded area, beuillât. The first explanation seems appropriate, nonetheless: the wine possesses an ethereal touch that summons a fluffy cloud of Pinot Noir, all while saturating the palate with delicate goodness. This is supple, velvety, seductive Volnay as we love it, and it begs us to dive right in today.