My colleagues and I used to stack large volumes of wine for our consumption in the naturally cool, pebbled cellar below our Beaune office on Cour des Chartreux—a bygone luxury now that I live in a studio in Brooklyn. We’d order Minet’s Pouilly-Fumé by the case as an alternative to the Bourgogne blancs we’d become accustomed to. Grown in Kimmeridgian soil and made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc, Pouilly-Fumé will never shake the comparison to neighboring Sancerre. But I find Minet’s to be unmistakably Burgundian: less pungent and creamier than Sancerre, with the refined mineral texture of polished stone.
Visiting a farm in Vermont one time, I held the waxy wool of a freshly shorn sheep in my palm and had an “aha!” moment. The comforting scent of lanolin emitted the same intriguing note I always relished but struggled to articulate when drinking Épiré’s Cuvée Spéciale. The medley of pear, white flowers, and juicy pineapple typical of Savennières gains in complexity in the Spéciale thanks to a selection of grapes from top parcels and a half-year spent in chestnut demi-muids. Lay it down for at least five years to unlock its full potential, or drink now.
As one of the most northerly grape-growing regions in France, the vineyards in Bourgueil are a challenge to work organically, but the Bretons are not easily deterred. They were early pioneers of the organic philosophy and helped transform the appellation from its reputation as a producer of second-class bistro wines to a veritable natural wine Mecca. Trinch! is peppery and bright, earthy and juicy all at once. Pierre tells me the anthem of Liverpool’s soccer fans, “You’ll never walk alone,” inspired the name that means cheers in English: As long as you have a bottle on hand and supportive friends around, “You’ll never drink alone.”
Drinking distilled spirits, beer, coolers, wine and other alcoholic beverages may increase cancer risk, and, during pregnancy, can cause birth defects. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/alcohol
Many food and beverage cans have linings containing bisphenol A (BPA), a chemical known to cause harm to the female reproductive system. Jar lids and bottle caps may also contain BPA. You can be exposed to BPA when you consume foods or beverages packaged in these containers. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/bpa