I know of no better lesson in terroir than a three-hour tasting with Félix Meyer in Katzenthal, Alsace. I made my annual pilgrimage to see him during the first week of December to taste through all of his 2017s, and again I left with my head in the stars.
Kermit spent a lot of time in the 1970s combing through the northern Rhône, a region given scant attention then in France and abroad, where the stars...