Muriel Giudicelli grew up visiting family on the island of Corsica and in the mid-1990s finally decided to stay put in a subregion of the Patrimonio appellation called Campo Gallo, where she has since been making biodynamic wines with a deft, gentle touch. Her blanc, made from 100% Vermentinu, is one of the headiest Corsican wines I’ve enjoyed. It’s beautifully ethereal, with pillowy fruit that tastes so sublime it would be limiting to attempt a description, although quince and verbena jump to mind. There’s tension and minerality, too, with an acidity so bright it bursts on your tongue like pearls of finger lime.
Consistency is key for sixth-generation winemaker Yves Leccia, who year after year bottles some of the most chiseled, sumptuous Corsican whites with Burgundy-like precision. His Patrimonio blanc, from the stony E Croce plateau, is bright and luminous, with hints of white grapefruit, acacia flowers, and fragrant maquis herbs. You’ll taste the salty sea breeze in this wine, so seafood is an obvious pairing, but so are spring vegetables like white asparagus, fava beans, and watercress salad with peas and mint.
The day I visit Corsica I’m heading straight to Comte Abbatucci for a total immersion lesson on Corsican heritage. In the 1960s, Jean-Charles Abbatucci’s father, Antoine, planted a nursery there of indigenous varieties that he rescued from the brink of extinction. Général blends six of these tenacious varieties and tastes inextricably linked to its place of origin: powerful and bright, with notes of white peach and mulberry, it’s long and silky and distinctly mineral. Biodynamic practices help amplify this wine’s intensity, concentrating its flavors into a biancu unlike any other. It is an illuminating nod to Corsica’s past and a glimpse into its winegrowing future.
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