With Duline’s Friulano—the grape formerly known as Tocai—there is simply no better course of action than the ultra-local pairing with paper-thin slices of fine Friulan prosciutto. Seeking out high-quality San Daniele pays off here, as its delicate, melt-in-your-mouth texture and sweet, exquisite flavor marry to perfection with this white. A blend of Tocai Giallo and Tocai Verde (two clones of the Friulano grape), it presents a sumptuous, mouth-coating peachiness thanks to the rare, low-yielding Giallo. The harmonious finish evokes wet stone and a hint of bitter almond—just what is needed to cut through all that salty fat.
Suggested pairing: thinly sliced prosciutto, San Daniele if possible
It is only natural that Lumassina, a rare grape exclusive to the Ligurian coast, should be served with another specialty of the region: crisp, lightly battered fried anchovies—supplemented, if you so wish, with calamari, little shrimp, thinly sliced fennel, and sage leaves (all deep-fried, naturally). The Lumassina, a gently flowery, low-alcohol white that presents a barely noticeable spritz, brings a lemony springtime freshness, allowing it to act almost as a condiment to the fritto. In Liguria, your fritto must be of such quality that a squeeze of lemon not only is unnecessary but would detract from the inherent purity of the raw ingredients. My suggestion: squeeze not; opt for a cold glass of Lumassina instead.
Soak the radicchio leaves in ice water if they seem too bitter, then mix with tender whole parsley leaves and dress with lemon and olive oil. Marinated anchovies make a good addition, if desired. Regardless, you’ll want to add plenty of cracked black pepper and shaved Parmigiano over the top. Gregoletto’s slightly cloudy Prosecco col fondo (refermented in bottle and unfiltered, the old-fashioned way) is a stimulating partner to this Venetian-inspired dish: brisk, bubbly, bracingly mineral, and quite tactile on the palate. Its faint yeastiness plays beautifully with the radicchio, and every bottle seems to drain itself.
Suggested pairing: chopped Treviso salad with parsley and shaved Parmesan
Drinking distilled spirits, beer, coolers, wine and other alcoholic beverages may increase cancer risk, and, during pregnancy, can cause birth defects. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/alcohol
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