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Domaine de Villaine

by Chris Santini

Buy this collection 8 bottles

Pierre de Benoist, nephew of Aubert de Villaine and vigneron at Domaine de Villaine

Buy this collection 8 bottles

Buy this collection 8 bottles

Pierre de Benoist, nephew of Aubert de Villaine and vigneron at Domaine de Villaine
Pierre de Benoist, nephew of Aubert de Villaine and vigneron at Domaine de Villaine

Burgundy is changing. Harvest in 2020, which began in mid-August, was the earliest here since 1371. An August harvest a generation ago was a once-in-a-lifetime experience for a Burgundian, and now it’s the new norm. Domaine de Villaine refers to the 2018 vintage as one in which everything we consider “classic” about Burgundy is still found in abundance: the delicacy, the perfume, the cool acidity balanced with just the right roundness. While this vintage may be your last taste of “classic” Burgundy, the domaine says not to worry for the future. Burgundy will continue to change, and a new “classic” will emerge, as grapes adapt and evolve with the warming climate in new and promising ways. More on that next year! For now, let’s focus on the 2018s while we still can. My one word of advice is “Bouzeron.” Start there, and then venture out to the others. The Aligoté Doré vines of Bouzeron—many of which are older than any living human on this planet—are the heart, soul, guts, and anchor of the domaine. When the Aligoté speaks, the domaine listens. Experience gleaned working with the Aligoté is used for the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, so the salinity of Bouzeron has echoes in the Rully and Clous Aimé, while the luminosity and silk of the Bouzeron is found in the Fortune and La Digoine, and so on. Perhaps the future “classic” in Burgundy will be inspired and led by Aligoté, of all grapes. Imagine that.

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