Champagne—or, rather, its image—has come a long way in recent years. Now more than ever, aficionados are seeking out Champagnes by small-scale artisans from sustainably grown fruit. Decades of negligent farming are in the rear-view mirror, as large houses and independent growers alike are turning to organic and often biodynamic practices that yield characterful, balanced grapes without depleting the soil. Most importantly, thirsty consumers now have access to more fine Champagnes than ever before, and it appears they are correspondingly more educated, opinionated, and downright passionate about the world’s most famous sparkling beverage.
      At the root of all this progress lies the realization that Champagne is in fact a wine. Sure, it is a nice wine, one whose prestige and high cost have placed it almost regrettably in the “special occasion” category, but it is a wine nonetheless—a product of grapes, terroir, and local savoir faire that can range from the unpalatable to the truly sublime. Like all wines, Champagnes come in many forms based on blend, production site, and vineyard and cellar practices. And like all wines, different Champagnes shine under different circumstances: with or without food, contingent upon one’s mood and the setting; furthermore, some are destined for early drinking, whereas others benefit from long-term aging.
      Take Champagne Veuve Fourny, from brothers Charles and Emmanuel Fourny in Vertus. Their chalky, bone-dry creations represent the ultimate cure to a parched palate—I’ll take a bottle of the pure, mineral Brut Nature with a dozen briny oysters, please. And Lassalle? I’m feeling a bit decadent today, so I’ll have the deep, broad-shouldered, slightly toasty Cuvée Angéline with a truffle risotto. Finally, let us not forget the venerable Paul Bara house of Bouzy, Champagne’s Pinot Noir capital: it’s date night, so a split of the seductively perfumed Brut Rosé will do the trick.
      Most Champagne is sold around the holidays, and most is probably drunk around the holidays, too—it’s no coincidence our annual Champagne sale falls in November, in anticipation of the copious end-of-year festivities. But this year, think of the sale as an opportunity to stock up for the entire upcoming year: after all, regular Champagne consumption has been proven to increase feelings of emotional well-being.* And don’t forget to stock your cellar with some fine vintages of top cuvées: the radiant perfume of a properly cellared Champagne at peak maturity is unrivaled, and simply popping the cork is a special occasion in and of itself.

*Scientific data is still pending, but you can take my word.