Jurassic Peak
François Rousset-Martin
by Jennifer Oakes
Let me introduce you to some of my favorite wines in the shop—the fascinatingly diverse and refreshingly versatile wines of the Jura region’s François Rousset-Martin. The whites come in two main styles. First, there’s the ouillé (“topped-up”), or fresh style, either of native Savagnin, not unlike a Chenin Blanc in flavor profile, or of Chardonnay, which is like a yeasty Chablis. They have excellent acidity and brightness with a lovely mineral texture. These wines are perfect with briny oysters, cheese, Thai food, fried chicken—you name it!
The other style of white is sous voile (“under the veil,” the veil being a thin cloak of yeast floating on the top of the wine in barrel). These are similar to dry Sherry, but unlike Sherry, which is vinified in a much warmer climate so the wine can have a more “cooked” aroma to it, Jura whites have a more pronounced vitality and freshness and, while dry and slightly savory, are incredible with a wide range of foods. Try them with Comté cheese, curry, shrimp, risotto, or mushroom dishes.
The reds are light and juicy and have all the joyous hallmarks of a classic Beaujolais, bringing in Gamay, Pinot Noir, and the local grape, Poulsard, yielding a perfect accompaniment to all your summer fare.