2015 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru “Les Chalumaux”Comtesse de Chérisey
France | Burgundy
$120
Producers
Dustin's Pick This is an absolutely face-melting Loire valley white. Yes, I said face-melting. I'm not usually one for gonzo marketing but this electric Chenin Blanc from Bernard Baudry warrants it. Super structured, crisp fruit, a limey cirtus blast, and limestone chalk in your teeth. You should really get a few bottles.
A mere three percent of vineyard land in the Chinon appellation is dedicated to Chenin Blanc, the star cépage in the rare, precious Chinon blanc. As it turns out, Chenin is just as well adapted to Chinon’s great tuffeau sites as is Cabernet Franc, the AOC’s dominant grape. These white limestone soils yield the most profound and structured wines in both colors, and Baudry’s Croix Boissée is among the very finest. The broad-shouldered and intensely chalky 2018 will benefit from a good decanting or, better yet, a long slumber in a cool place.
—Anthony Lynch
Wine Type: | white |
Vintage: | 2018 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Chenin Blanc |
Appellation: | Chinon |
Country: | France |
Region: | Loire |
Producer: | Bernard Baudry |
Vineyard: | .5 ha, Planted between 1994 and 2004 |
Soil: | Clay, Sand, White Limestone |
Farming: | Organic (practicing) |
Alcohol: | 13.5% |
Bernard Baudry France | Loire | Chinon
Bernard Baudry France | Loire | Chinon
Bernard Baudry France | Loire | Chinon
Bernard Baudry France | Loire | Chinon
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmderidgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire | Vouvray
Domaine Roger Neveu France | Loire | Sancerre
Domaine de la Chanteleuserie France | Loire | Bourgueil
Daniel Chotard France | Loire | Sancerre
Thierry Germain France | Loire | Saumur
Thierry Germain France | Loire | Saumur
Château d’Epiré France | Loire | Savennières
Éric Chevalier France | Loire | Vin de Pays du Val de Loire
Thierry Germain France | Loire | Saumur
Bernard Baudry France | Loire | Chinon
I want you to realize once and for all: Even the winemaker does not know what aging is going to do to a new vintage; Robert Parker does not know; I do not know. We all make educated (hopefully) guesses about what the future will bring, but guesses they are. And one of the pleasures of a wine cellar is the opportunity it provides for you to witness the evolution of your various selections. Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.
Inspiring Thirst, page 171
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