When I set out to write up the three reds below, I was ready to proclaim how well Loire Valley Cabernet Franc lends itself to vegetarian cooking. I was going to share with you that the Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur Champigny all paired beautifully with a trio of toasts I whipped up: one topped with mashed winter squash and ricotta, the second with sautéed kale and cannellini beans, and the third covered in mushrooms sautéed in butter and herbs. I was about to say how this compatibility makes sense because the Loire Valley is known as le Jardin de la France, and it is fitting that the region’s wines naturally complement all kinds of produce and foraged treasures. All these things are true!
           But then I had a glass of Thierry Germain’s Clos de l’Échelier alongside seared tuna with a sesame seed crust, and I will only say this: if I reach the heights of this pairing in my kitchen again in 2021, I will consider myself very lucky.